Laura, Rob and I hit St. Agnes today. It was pretty epic. I had the best over the falls of my life on this wave that might have been a head and a half. It kinda felt like a roller coaster ride. The locals were loving The Stub.
December 5, 2009
November 29, 2009
God rays are in cartoons, movies, and every day life in general. Photography wouldn’t be where it is today without God Rays. Whether the soundtrack to God rays is organs playing or a subtle choir singing ahhh, God rays are awesome, a good God ray shot will trump a sunset or rainbow shot any day.
November 28, 2009
The FXU/Freeriders Surf Comp 09 went on at Porthmoer today. Ryan borrowed my camera again.
I went out for a second time during the day. It might seem like awesome to have two sessions in a day but when it’s 50 degrees below freezing and your wetsuit is wet from the last use, things aren’t so lush… Taken by Ryan.
November 17, 2009
A few things happened today: I left the Wilson house. I learned that there’s a little green dot that appears in the bottom corner of my view finder when something is in focus(At the mo I only use manual lenses).
November 16, 2009
Ben, Endy, Sam and I went to Stithians for a little sesh today. A few games of skate and some spills. It was good to take a break from my project.
November 15, 2009
Yesterday was the first time I ever surfed Swanpool beach. It was uber offshore and the crowd factor was redic. There were no rules any more. People were dropping in on one another left and right.
November 11, 2009
Today we arrived at Perranporth for a second time after checking Crantock and after I put on my wetsuit, I realized I was wearing my glasses. I don’t carry a spare pair of contacts with me so I was going to surf blind… I was pretty freaked out because they waves looked big from far away but as soon as I rode the first wave I was stoked. It was a totally different feeling when you’re riding a wave but you only see vague shapes.
November 8, 2009
Today we went hunting for some surf. It ended up settling for Praa. Ryan and I went in. Joe and Emma had a lovely day at the beach while Ben did a bit of photography.