Laura, Rob and I hit St. Agnes today. It was pretty epic. I had the best over the falls of my life on this wave that might have been a head and a half. It kinda felt like a roller coaster ride. The locals were loving The Stub.
The crowds were dense and undensified at a later time.
How can anyone resist taking pictures of oil on the ground?
Rob owns this contraption: a legit miniature surfboard(fiberglass foam, stringer and all) with trucks and wheels mounted on them. It’s pretty sickkk.
God rays are in cartoons, movies, and every day life in general. Photography wouldn’t be where it is today without God Rays. Whether the soundtrack to God rays is organs playing or a subtle choir singing ahhh, God rays are awesome, a good God ray shot will trump a sunset or rainbow shot any day.
Keith doesn’t know it but he’s in the presence of God. Three ish gods to be exact.
Many Gods look upon Praa Sands.
Sometimes only one god shines through. Taken By Ryan Riley.
Surfers love god rays. Taken By Ryan Riley.
Sometimes interesting framing can make a photograph incredibly spectacular. I’ll save that for another post but here’s a preview. Taken By Ryan Riley.
The FXU/Freeriders Surf Comp 09 went on at Porthmoer today. Ryan borrowed my camera again.
Ryan’s gonna get some wings.
After a few shots, he became a huge fan. Taken by Ryan.
Ryan’s theory was, take pics of this ripping grom and sell the pics to him later. Taken by Ryan.
That rock threw some big spray. Taken by Ryan.
St. Ives’ own Teahupoo, except it’s right. Taken by Ryan.
Classic sand shot. Taken by Ryan.
Nose drops. Taken by Ryan.
Rob H’s shoes and tail. Taken by Ryan.
Barber is his arch nemisis. Taken by Ryan.
It was raining pretty hardcore the whole time. Taken by Ryan.
Keith was the head judge as well as the color guard of the comp. Taken by Ryan.
I went out for a second time during the day. It might seem like awesome to have two sessions in a day but when it’s 50 degrees below freezing and your wetsuit is wet from the last use, things aren’t so lush… Taken by Ryan.
A few things happened today: I left the Wilson house. I learned that there’s a little green dot that appears in the bottom corner of my view finder when something is in focus(At the mo I only use manual lenses).
I did not leave this mess when I left. My life fits in two dakine backpacks.
I scored this robot cut out mdf jobbie in school today. The girl who created it is a legend.
Ben, Endy, Sam and I went to Stithians for a little sesh today. A few games of skate and some spills. It was good to take a break from my project.
Going to an empty skatepark, surf spot, etc etc, gives you a fantastic feeling.
Ben having a go on Sam’s bike.
Sam attempting a tail whip(pronounced hu•wip)
Endy doing a steezy grab over the hip.
The sun sat in a rainless sky.
Yesterday was the first time I ever surfed Swanpool beach. It was uber offshore and the crowd factor was redic. There were no rules any more. People were dropping in on one another left and right.
While I was working on my laptop I looked at the window. Thought the texture in the curtains would make a cool shot with some backlight.
We left the house pretty early and checked Swanpool. It looked rank so we checked Gylly and saw this mini right but weren’t too keen.
We went to Jan’s afterwards. Had another opportunity to shoot another window. Sick shade of blue.
Jan’s girlfriend picked up some coasters with wicked illustrations on them.
It really looks like the house of art students.
It rained.
We went back to Swanpool to sesh it. It looked awesome for a Falmouth break.
We left because of the crowds. Here’s a splashing shot.
Here’s a Gylly Reef left.
We booked tickets for 2012 which was an awesome movie. Since we had 2 hours to kill we went for a skate at the Maritime parking lot.
Ben sliding out the tail.
Long exposure down the shoe.
Shoe view with pop up flash.
I set the camera to a 10 second exposure, set it on top of my board and pushed it down the lot. The world is a scary place for a skateboard
Today we arrived at Perranporth for a second time after checking Crantock and after I put on my wetsuit, I realized I was wearing my glasses. I don’t carry a spare pair of contacts with me so I was going to surf blind… I was pretty freaked out because they waves looked big from far away but as soon as I rode the first wave I was stoked. It was a totally different feeling when you’re riding a wave but you only see vague shapes.
Long lines. Super glassy.
A cornish crow, mid flight in the Perranporth car park.
We went to Perranporth once and Joe wasn’t satisfied so we checked Crantock and that was pants so we went back to Perranporth.
I usually make pasta bakes for dinner at Ben’s, maybe because it was the first thing his mom ever made me.
Ben had a giant pasty.
A wider angle of my meal.
To test a pasty’s ready-to-eat-ness it’s best to drill a hole, extract a potato and eat it. If it’s good then the pasty is good.
Today we went hunting for some surf. It ended up settling for Praa. Ryan and I went in. Joe and Emma had a lovely day at the beach while Ben did a bit of photography.
British Surf Mags at Keith’s. Taken by Ryan.
Secret spot behind the bush.
Rinsey looked alright but Ben wasn’t keen of the crowd factor.
Ryan had a million stickers in a box so Ben and I snagged a few.
Some fun looking rights at Praa.
Down the line. Taken by Ryan.
Head Dippers. Taken by Ryan.
Ryan getting shackled. Taken by Benji.
Another pit in Ryan’s arsenal. Taken by Benji.
Ryan going off the wall. Taken by Benji.
I didn’t quite make that right… Taken by Benji.
Ryan got smashed by this rogue. Taken by Benji.
Pigdogging isn’t my thing. Taken by Benji.
It was a fun sesh. Golden sunsets for everybody on the south coast.
I think I’m going to shoot with my dad’s old 135mm f/2.8 for a while. For those of you that don’t know, Nikon never changes their mounting system so this 25 year old lens fits on my 3 year old Nikon D50.
It’s all about capturing life’s details but also handy for taking surf shots.
All these objects are pretty relevant to my going to sleep and waking up. Ish.
The howies catalog is a last minute addition.
UK plugs are redonculously big.
Michio Kaku’s crazy research of what will be possible in the future helps me Zzzz.
