Today we ended up going to San O after we worked on our boards. It was pretty slack but we got some alright rides.
Historic.
My cornish babe courtesy of Keith from Freeriders Surf Shop.
Mitch standing on the hood of a Mercedes.
The board point of view on the drive home.
So the big swell hit so cal on Friday and it’s still here.
On Saturday Mitch, Kelly and I went to San O. Kelly was out since she got hit by Mitch’s Chuck Dent funboard. I wonder why his last name is Dent? Anyways I was stoked to try out my Alaia for the first time. As soon As I got in the water, I found that the board had no buoyancy which I kinda expected. I hopped on the board to start paddling and then I was like, how did the Hawaiians do it back in the day? I started paddling forward and the board started to come out of the water and I was actually doing fine. It’s kind of like normal swimming with some resistance against the chest. Some whitewater started to approach and I figured I can just duck dive them like a normal surfboard. I did and the thing duck dives like no other. Since there’s no float and it’s so thin, it’s pretty much the easiest thing to do when on an Alaia. I finally got out back and sat on the board. I was up to my neck in water, which I already knew would happen since Mitch tested his Alaia out earlier in the week. I tried to catch a few waves but it just didn’t happen. My conclusion was that Alaias work better on wave steeper than San O. Oh yeah the wax(paraffin wax that I rubbed into the board to make it water proof) just flaked off. I realized that while I was out there the board’s float kept decreasing. I ended up going in and taking out my single fin.
Here’s Mitch checking out the happenings.
