Laura, Rob and I hit St. Agnes today. It was pretty epic. I had the best over the falls of my life on this wave that might have been a head and a half. It kinda felt like a roller coaster ride. The locals were loving The Stub.
The crowds were dense and undensified at a later time.
How can anyone resist taking pictures of oil on the ground?
Rob owns this contraption: a legit miniature surfboard(fiberglass foam, stringer and all) with trucks and wheels mounted on them. It’s pretty sickkk.
The FXU/Freeriders Surf Comp 09 went on at Porthmoer today. Ryan borrowed my camera again.
Ryan’s gonna get some wings.
After a few shots, he became a huge fan. Taken by Ryan.
Ryan’s theory was, take pics of this ripping grom and sell the pics to him later. Taken by Ryan.
That rock threw some big spray. Taken by Ryan.
St. Ives’ own Teahupoo, except it’s right. Taken by Ryan.
Classic sand shot. Taken by Ryan.
Nose drops. Taken by Ryan.
Rob H’s shoes and tail. Taken by Ryan.
Barber is his arch nemisis. Taken by Ryan.
It was raining pretty hardcore the whole time. Taken by Ryan.
Keith was the head judge as well as the color guard of the comp. Taken by Ryan.
I went out for a second time during the day. It might seem like awesome to have two sessions in a day but when it’s 50 degrees below freezing and your wetsuit is wet from the last use, things aren’t so lush… Taken by Ryan.
Today we went hunting for some surf. It ended up settling for Praa. Ryan and I went in. Joe and Emma had a lovely day at the beach while Ben did a bit of photography.
British Surf Mags at Keith’s. Taken by Ryan.
Secret spot behind the bush.
Rinsey looked alright but Ben wasn’t keen of the crowd factor.
Ryan had a million stickers in a box so Ben and I snagged a few.
Some fun looking rights at Praa.
Down the line. Taken by Ryan.
Head Dippers. Taken by Ryan.
Ryan getting shackled. Taken by Benji.
Another pit in Ryan’s arsenal. Taken by Benji.
Ryan going off the wall. Taken by Benji.
I didn’t quite make that right… Taken by Benji.
Ryan got smashed by this rogue. Taken by Benji.
Pigdogging isn’t my thing. Taken by Benji.
It was a fun sesh. Golden sunsets for everybody on the south coast.
We drew these while the lappy t was hooked up to the big screen.
Here’s the set up.
Here’s Ben’s second Wacom wave.
My version of a perfect wave. I’d probably prefer if it was a right so mirror this image in your head.
I haven’t been shooting a lot of ramas this year.
Took these series of stitches photos near the Maritime.
Today Mitch and I set off to Santa Cruz to visit Mike and Zack.
Woke up at 5, finished packing the car and got on the road by 5:45ish.
Some fog rolling over some hills a little past LA.
Open Roads.
Hours and hours.
This might be Rincon ish.
Some surfers.
Farmland.
Cliffsides.
Cows.
Barns.
We tunneled in.
We tunneled out.
More ranchy ness.
Finally hit some foliage.
55,717+2 more.
Surfed Pleasure Point. It was pretty epic. Very Kelpy. Saw a sea otter. Caught some sick ripples.
Zack doing a post surf jam.
Kevin and Max, Mike and Zack’s housemates, on guitar and or bass.
This week I surfed 34th Street for the first time. It’s a pretty chill place. Small little waves roll through and they are ace for longboarding on. Dylan and TJ introduced me to this spot. Mitch and I came back to the spot with Matt and we had a wicked time shredding ankle biters.
Less parking than 56st+.
This street takes us to 34th.
Daniel, Ian, Jason, Mitch and I went for a late sesh tonight. It was Daniel’s first time surfing so he was privileged to go to Trestles for it. It was super small but really fun. Oh yeah I took my dad’s 135mm lens today. It’s a weird focal length but it fun to try to compose the shot.
Retro style pic.
Train pass.
This guy was shredding today due to his medium sized longboard. He has this retro style with his feet super close together.
Mitch emerging from the darkness after a wicked last ride.
Weird little arrow thingy in the background.
This was a rare site; Ian’s car was pretty much the only one parked at the Trestles lot.
I know my board isn’t a legit hull but I can’t wait to surf it.
Hulltastic Video
