Laura, Rob and I hit St. Agnes today. It was pretty epic. I had the best over the falls of my life on this wave that might have been a head and a half. It kinda felt like a roller coaster ride. The locals were loving The Stub.
December 5, 2009
November 28, 2009
The FXU/Freeriders Surf Comp 09 went on at Porthmoer today. Ryan borrowed my camera again.
I went out for a second time during the day. It might seem like awesome to have two sessions in a day but when it’s 50 degrees below freezing and your wetsuit is wet from the last use, things aren’t so lush… Taken by Ryan.
November 8, 2009
Today we went hunting for some surf. It ended up settling for Praa. Ryan and I went in. Joe and Emma had a lovely day at the beach while Ben did a bit of photography.
More Wacom Bamboo Waves
October 31, 2009
October 20, 2009
September 16, 2009
Today Mitch and I set off to Santa Cruz to visit Mike and Zack.
34th Street Newport Beach
September 7, 2009
This week I surfed 34th Street for the first time. It’s a pretty chill place. Small little waves roll through and they are ace for longboarding on. Dylan and TJ introduced me to this spot. Mitch and I came back to the spot with Matt and we had a wicked time shredding ankle biters.
Trestles Night Surf
August 31, 2009
Daniel, Ian, Jason, Mitch and I went for a late sesh tonight. It was Daniel’s first time surfing so he was privileged to go to Trestles for it. It was super small but really fun. Oh yeah I took my dad’s 135mm lens today. It’s a weird focal length but it fun to try to compose the shot.
August 27, 2009
I know my board isn’t a legit hull but I can’t wait to surf it.